Pockets are one of the most universally loved features in handmade clothing — and one of the best arguments for sewing your own garments. Ready-to-wear skirts frequently omit or fake pockets entirely; when you sew your own, you have complete control. This guide covers exactly how to add inseam pockets to any skirt pattern, from cutting the pocket pieces to the finished functional result.
Our elastic waist skirt with inseam pockets PDF already includes pockets — download it for a pattern that has everything built in. For adding pockets to other skirt patterns, read on.
Types of Skirt Pockets
Inseam Pockets
The most popular beginner pocket — hidden in the side seam of the skirt with no visible opening on the outside. Functional, clean, and relatively easy to add to any skirt pattern.
Patch Pockets
A rectangular or shaped piece of fabric stitched onto the outside of the skirt. Easier than inseam pockets but visible on the finished garment.
Welt Pockets
A sophisticated pocket with a neat slit opening and fabric bands. More complex — suitable for intermediate sewists. Avoid for first pocket projects.
How to Add Inseam Pockets — Step by Step
Cut pocket pieces
Cut four pocket bag pieces from lining fabric or the same fabric as the skirt. Most patterns include a pocket bag template — a rounded rectangle shape typically 18–22cm deep and 15–18cm wide. If your pattern doesn't include pockets, trace a pocket bag from an existing garment pocket or draft a simple rounded rectangle to the depth you want.
Mark pocket placement on skirt pieces
On each skirt front and back piece, mark the pocket opening position on the side seam. The opening is typically 14–18cm long, starting about 4–6cm below the waistband. The exact position varies by pattern and your hand size.
Sew pocket bags to skirt pieces
Sew one pocket bag piece to the front skirt piece and one to the back skirt piece at each side seam, right sides together, at the pocket opening marks only. Press pocket bags outward away from the skirt body.
Sew the side seam
With front and back skirt pieces right sides together, sew the side seam — sewing from the waist down to the top of the pocket opening, then pivoting to sew around the pocket bag, then continuing down the side seam from the bottom of the pocket opening to the hem. Backstitch carefully at each pivot point.
Trim and clip
Trim the pocket bag seam allowance to reduce bulk. Clip into the corners at the top and bottom of the pocket opening to help the seam lie flat.
Press and topstitch
Press the pocket bag toward the skirt front. From the right side, topstitch 3mm from the side seam at the pocket opening to hold the pocket bag in position and prevent it from flipping to the outside during wear.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I add pockets to any skirt pattern?
Yes — inseam pockets can be added to any skirt with straight side seams. The process involves cutting pocket bag pieces, attaching them to the side seam edges, and sewing around them when joining the side seams.
What fabric should I use for pocket bags?
Lightweight cotton lining fabric is ideal for pocket bags — it reduces bulk inside the skirt and is smooth and comfortable against the hand. You can also use the same fabric as the skirt for a perfectly matched result.
How deep should skirt pockets be?
Most comfortable skirt pockets are 18–22cm deep — deep enough to hold a phone without items falling out. Check by measuring the depth of pockets in your favourite skirt for reference.
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