Perfect fitting from a pattern straight off the printer is relatively rare — most sewists need to make at least minor adjustments to get their best results. The good news is that the most common adjustments are straightforward once you know the technique. This guide covers all the most important ones. Read our guide on how to measure for a sewing pattern alongside this article.
Why This Pattern Is Perfect for Beginners
- Most patterns need minor adjustments for individual body proportions
- Learning basic adjustments dramatically improves result quality across all garments
- Adjustments are made to the pattern paper before cutting fabric — much easier than garment alterations
- Making a toile first reveals exactly which adjustments are needed
- Simple adjustments like length changes are achievable for complete beginners
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Lengthening / Shortening
The easiest and most common adjustment. Add or remove length at the lengthen/shorten line printed on most pattern pieces. Cut and spread (lengthen) or fold (shorten) by the required amount.
Grading Between Sizes
If you need different sizes at different measurements (e.g. size 14 at bust, size 16 at hips), draw a gradual transition line between the two sizes on the pattern piece.
Full Bust Adjustment
The most common adjustment for D+ cup sizes — adds width to the front bodice piece to accommodate a larger bust without affecting shoulder or waist measurements.
Sway Back Adjustment
Removes length from the centre back waist area to prevent fabric pooling at the lower back — common adjustment for many body types.
Find Your Perfect Fit
All SewSimple patterns available in sizes XS to 5XL — PDF download, instant access, illustrated instructions.
✨ Browse All SizesBest Fabrics
| Fabric | Result | Ease |
|---|---|---|
| Lengthen/shorten | Easiest adjustment — fold or cut and spread | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Beginner |
| Grade between sizes | Draw transition line between two sizes | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ Easy |
| Full bust adjustment | Adds width to front bodice only | ⭐⭐⭐ Moderate |
| Waist adjustment | Take in or let out at side seams | ⭐⭐⭐ Moderate |
| Sway back | Remove length at centre back | ⭐⭐⭐ Moderate |
Step-by-Step Sewing Guide
Always make adjustments to paper, not fabric
Adjust the pattern pieces before cutting any fabric. Mark the adjusted lines clearly, redraw the seam lines through adjustments, and verify the altered pieces make sense before cutting.
Lengthening a pattern
Draw two parallel lines across the pattern piece at the lengthen/shorten position. Cut along both lines. Insert a strip of paper equal to the required lengthening amount. Tape in place and redraw the cutting lines through the inserted paper.
Shortening a pattern
Draw a fold line across the pattern piece at the lengthen/shorten position. Fold the pattern along this line, taking up half the shortening amount on each side. Tape and redraw the cutting lines through the fold.
Grading between sizes
If you are a different size at bust than hip, locate where the size lines diverge on the pattern pieces (usually at the waist area). Draw a smooth gradual line connecting your bust size line above the waist to your hip size line below the waist.
Always make a toile first
For any significant adjustment, make a test garment in cheap fabric (a toile) before cutting your good fabric. This reveals whether the adjustment has worked and whether additional adjustments are needed.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if I need to adjust a sewing pattern?
Compare your measurements to the finished garment measurements in the pattern (not the body measurements) — subtracting the finished measurements from your body measurements tells you how much ease there is. If any area has negative ease in a non-stretch pattern, adjustment is needed.
Can I wear a different size in the top and bottom of a pattern?
Yes — this is called grading between sizes and is very common. If your bust is a size 12 but your hips are a size 14, draw a transition line between the two sizes at the waist area on the pattern pieces.
Is a full bust adjustment difficult?
A simplified full bust adjustment is achievable for intermediate beginners. It involves cutting and spreading the front bodice pattern piece. There are many detailed tutorials available specifically for this adjustment.
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